||Building the hull | Sanding &
Painting | Masts & Rigging
Building the Hull
||Position the frames at right angles to the keel. Next mount the
deck and bulkhead. When dry, sand the frames to taper. This ensures
both a larger surface and a better positioning of the planking strips.
Planking the hull can be done in a number of ways. Here we have chosen
to start by applying the first strip so that it follows the upper
edge of the deck. Apply glue to each frame and the upper edge of the
strip, and hold the strip in place with pins until dry. Proceed planking
the hull downwards, shifting from side to side in order to avoid any
misalignments as the strips are applied. Each strip should be cut
or sanded conically to fit the shape of the hull when gently placed
on the frame. Do not force the strip into position.
Sanding & Painting
||The appearance of the hull is of great importance for the appearance
of the final model. Time spent carefully sanding and painting will
be rewarded with a hull, which is completely smooth, with no dents
Prime the hull with ground color. Sand, and fill out with putty. Sand
again, and continue this process until all irregularities or cracks
no longer can be seen.
Paint the model with oil paint, and fill out with putty again. Sand
once again and then paint the model.
When the paint is completely dry mark off the waterline around the
entire hull, as can be seen on the main drawing. Set tape along the
line, which will allow you to paint the bottom part of the hull with
no risk of mixing the two colors. Do not remove the tape until the
paint is completely dry.
Models of older ships with a wooden hull are usually stained instead
of painted. Sand carefully; do not use putty.
Masts & Rigging
If the masts are to be painted or stained,
it is a good idea to do this before assembly. After assembling the
masts, mount the various fittings. Follow the same procedure with
the yards. If the model has sails, sew these, then affix blocks
and rigging thread. Attach the sails to the yards. Next, mount the
masts in the hull and affix shrouds and stays. Attach the sails
and yards to the mast. An attractive appearance can be achieved
by rubbing the rigging threads with wax.
The manner of sizing the rigging based on the beam of the ship,
the diameter and length of the mast, and the thickness of the mast's
stays will be touched on later.
The general term masting a ship refers to the placement of the mast.
How far from the bow the first mast (foremast) will stand is carefully
calculated. How far apart the others (if any) will be placed in
order to impart the greatest power in pushing the ship through the
water then can be determined.
Masting and rigging also changed with these advances in the modern
shipwright's applications. Master were soon made of steel, and hemp
was replaced by wire rope. The terms changed. The shipwright became
a designer. The designer became a naval architect.
One of the hardest things to explain when viewing some models is
the rigging just doesn't look right. The fault often lies in the
fact that the rigging has been overstated - that is to say, it is
too thick. Often this is the result of the kit manufacturer who
includes too little line of graduated sizes, or the modeler building
from scratch who does not understand the rules of rigging.
Basically, running rigging consists of a rope, a block or series
of blocks, a fixed end and a loose end.